I originally envisioned this blog as a documenting of my journey from chicago to LA, from snow and work to sun and grad school, and all the various epiphanies along the way. Then why did I wait until I had been out here in Southern California for a year before starting it? None of your goddamn business, that's why.
But I do feel it's high time I wrote about something to do with my life out here. So here it is. Are you ready? Today, while it snowed in Chicago, I learned to surf. Yeah, baby. How cool is that? Very cool I tell you. I swallowed about a gallon of salt water, watched my body produce and expel more mucus than I ever thought possible, dinged my shin once, my head once (surfboards are HARD), put my wetsuit on backwards, was late for my lesson, couldn't pay because my atm card is scratched and not working, and had to borrow money from the guy I couldn't pay to pay my parking at the beach. But you know what? It was totally worth it, because I caught my first wave. Yes, I know, it's cliche. I know it's lame to say things like "you just don't get it until you do it, man." I don't care. I've been waiting for this cliche since I was 8, and all the rumors are true. It's AWESOME. I could have told you before (years ago, in fact, while I was still living in Chicago) that I would be hooked on surfing as soon as I tried it. In fact I think I did tell you. Well I am. In two and a half hours I stood up only three times, but the second one was for a really long ride where I even carved back and forth a little. And I'll never forget it, ever. It's a hell of a lot of hard work, and I was on baby waves, but man was it cool. I can't wait to do it again. Today was it. Today was why I moved to California.
Friday, March 25, 2005
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